Tuesday 7 April 2015

The Inca Trail and Macchu Picchu

We had a great time doing the Inca Trail with G Adventures. Massive difference from our normal backpacking it was more like glamping. In total the 7 days from arrival in Cusco to departing again was a treat. The 4 days spent trekking the trail were relatively easy, especially as the porters carry the majority of the gear. Just like in Nepal you see them trotting past in sandals with loaded packs on their backs. They race ahead and pitch the mess tent every lunch time and then pack up and have the same stuff ready again for your evening camp plus the tent your due to sleep in. Really you are spoilt! 

Our Inca Trail Group - Isi, Gary, Anna, Gabriella, Rosie, Me and Sarah, Amy and Darren


Great trek with lots of archeology to look at along the way, our guide Angel and Rumi both provided lots of insightful info and local knowledge. The weather was fairly good with only one day of heavy rain. As always you have to expect it in the mountains. Cusco is the centre of the historic Inca civilisation, unfortunately the invading Spanish conquiserdors either demolished or superimposed their catholic religion onto the Peruvian population of the time. Which ment many Incan archeological sites were built over.  One of which The Sunpalace in Cusco is now the cathedral. Interestingly the Incas were not a long standing civilisation but only very short term masters of the region (all beit a very large region) of central South America. Thè 'Inca' was the name given to the ruler of this empire not the name of the indigenous ethnic population who were likely Chimu in the Cusco and Macchu Picchu area, I think!

It's claimed this is the only whole gold ceremonial set of Chimu attire in public ownership 


The Inca dominated, frightened and in some instances decimated tribal populations in order to gain wider control in the geographical area. They managed to undertake great architectural works in there short 130 year existence by forced  'conscription' and taxation. We found fantastic feats of engineering but so many, including Macchu Picchu were unfinished. Further on towards the Amazon lie at least two further cities bigger and more diverse than Macchu Picchu none of which including Macchu Pichu were ever discovered by the Spanish. It's another 11 days walk, if you can find a guide to take you, to these cities. 

Macchu Picchu as we found it early in the morning just after dawn. Smothered in cloud and mist, this disappeared suddenly shortly afterwards




A little later on in the morning




Interestingly, although we think that the Spanish stole lots of gold from the Incas in reality they mined more than they stole. The Incas were masters of gold plating other metals. Sarah and I visited the Larco Museum in Lima which had wonderful examples from many civilisations from 8000 BC to 1600 AD (the Spanish arrived in 1532). Around 60% of the indigenous population died of chicken pox and other european disease never mind through conquistador violence. To begin with some of the Inca tribes aided the Spanish because they thought they were sent by the gods. The armour they wore was similar to the Incan rules garb I.E. shiny metal. It took approximately 4 years for the Incan rulers to realise they were being invaded and by that time they were to late to stop it. In the end they retreated towards the Amazon jungle and by all accounts vanished.

The scenery on the trail was wonderful with big sweeping vistas, often smothered in cloud.



Other beautiful things we crossed paths with were this Macchu Picchu Orchid, below and further below this strange but interesting drooping flower. 



Thanks to Angel and Rumi for an enjoyable and educational trek. 



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